I grew up in Anadarko, a
small town settled near the banks of the Washita River in southwestern Oklahoma's Caddo County.
Anadarko was a thriving
community when I was a child. Family shops lined Broadway, the town's main
street. Farmers and their families came to town on Saturdays to do their weekly
shopping, and elderly Plains Indians gathered on the sidewalks, talking to one
another in Kiowa and Comanche.
Our town boasted a fine
Victorian courthouse, as elegant as any county courthouse in Texas. The town
square had a bandstand and a statue honoring the Caddo County boys who died in
the Great World War.
And what a statue! A life-size bronze
figure of a doughboy stood
on a granite pedestal, where the names of all the dead were listed. The soldier
wore a campaign hat and a uniform with puttees. In one hand, he held the staff an American flag. In the other, he clutched the barrel of his
Springfield rifle.
Facing the courthouse square stood the First Methodist Church, erected in 1917 in the Greek Revival Style. A
Tudor-style Presbyterian church and the First Baptist Church also faced the
square. All these churches were full when I was a child.
I returned to Anadarko a few
days ago, and the town of my boyhood is gone. The county bureaucrats tore down
the Victorian courthouse in the 1950s and replaced it with a concrete structure
built in the mid-century
modern style--which, of course, is no style at all.
The Presbyterian church still
stands but is closed-- not enough Presbyterians to pay the light bill. The
Methodist church can't afford its own preacher anymore and shares a minister
with a nearby town. The Baptist church stands abandoned,
although a new church was erected at the edge of town.
The bandstand is gone, and so is
the bronze doughboy. All the local businesses are closed, wiped out by Walmart, which sells everything a rural Oklahoman could ever need.
Anadarko’s losses are sad, but
the new town is sadder still.
I drove by the home my father built
with his own hands in 1953. It is empty now and looked abandoned, just one of a few hundred abandoned houses in the town.
Anadarko had two movie houses
when I was a kid, as well as a drive-in movie theater. They are all gone—killed off
by television.
Of course, there are new things for the townspeople to do. The
Plains Tribes are now in the gambling business, and the citizens of Anadarko can
gamble with the Kiowa, the Comanche, the Fort Sill Apache, or the Wichita. Most
casinos are open until 2 AM if they can’t sleep and want to play the
slots.
When I was a kid, a person could be sent to state prison for possessing a single marijuana joint. But times have changed.
Now there’s a medical marijuana dispensary on Anadarko's Main
Street. Of course, you have to have a medical prescription, but I don’t imagine
it is difficult to find an accommodating doctor.
And my hometown's marijuana might have been grown locally. Oklahoma has hundreds of licensed marijuana-growing sites, and ten are near Anadarko.
Perhaps these marijuana greenhouses brought new jobs to Anadarko, which would be good. But no, growers bring in workers from
outside. Someone told me that some of the guys who
grow marijuana in Caddo County are Chinese.
But at least the landscape of my
childhood is still lovely—the stunning Oklahoma sunsets, the red-dirt hills, and the timeless vistas of the
Great Plains.
But again, no. Corporate America
has built hundreds of wind turbines in Caddo County—scarring the landscape I
once believed could never be changed.
Anadarko—abandoned homes, closed
businesses, a marijuana dispensary, and nearby gambling dens. No wonder many of
the people I saw looked clinically depressed. The town has a high suicide rate—primarily young people.
As I stood in the courthouse
square, I saw an empty lot where someone had painted a mural on the side of a building—a mural that
proclaimed this cryptic message:
A nation is not conquered until the hearts of
its women are on the ground.
I do not know if the hearts of
Anadarko’s women are on the ground. But if they are not, the town has some goddamned
strong women.